on May 13th, 2008 by mark
Len and Jan Gelfand, about whom I’ve written previously, are living the dream. In fact, they are so living the dream that the wine they make is pretty much already sold. Len often says, “I don’t want to work any harder. I came here to retire and this sort of just happened…”
Well, there’s probably more to it than that. Wine–good, delicious, thoughtful, nuanced and hand-crafted wine, doesn’t just happen. It’s created, fussed over, parsed, discussed, sipped, mulled over, and generally consistently thought about. And since that’s true, there is simply no way possible that Gelfand Winery just, well….happened.
Oh, I’m certain it is the happy accident Len says it was. I’ve met a lot of winemakers in similar positions. Rick Quinn and Dave Nichols of Opolo will tell you that theirs is a hobby gone out of control. Others are similar. But Lyn and Jan’s wines are of a piece gorgeous, evanescent and do at times seem effortless. And if indeed it sort of just happened, I’m jealous.
You cannot buy them in any bottle shop and hell, I’ve not even seen them in any restaurants though I know they must be there somewhere. You have to be a member of the Gelfand wine club to get the two shipments a year. My shipment is half a case of wine every 6 months or so. It’s hardly enough, honestly, and I find myself pining for more as the year rolls along.
Case in point is the latest shipment which included, of all things, one lousy bottle of one of the best Rose of Syrah’s I’ve ever had. I’m something of a Rose nut, a man set afire by his passion for the pink wines. I’ve been known to awaken at night, burning the wine fever–not for a big bold Cab or a peppery subtle Syrah, but a chilled Rose that lingers and dances on my tongue whiling away cool spring evenings and warm summer afternoons–white zinfandel notwithstanding. I have been known to pine for the stuff all year round, but it’s worse during the spring and summer months. This is the first Rose I’ve had from Len and Jan and it was velvety smooth with just enough lusciousness on the fruit side and a bit of mineral, even some herbaceous notes in the core of it all. I found myself being reminded of a good glass of Syrah, while sipping a chilled down lighter and fruitier version. It was a thing of beauty. And I get hosed with one bottle. Geez.
But that’s how they work it there at Gelfand. Always leave them wanting more. Well, I do-that’s certain. I suppose I could make some wiseacre comment about crack addicts and my willingness to go outside the norms of standard behavior in order to secure more Gelfand, but that wouldn’t be nice. No, the fact is I still have five different bottles of Len and Jan’s wines and I’m excited by them. But, it’s just not enough. I suppose I could up my ante and get two cases per year, but even that wouldn’t satisfy me. I love these wines. I cannot think of better ones. I know my Central Coast pretty well and I’ve had just about everyone’s wines (though there are still quite a few I’ve yet to try) from Santa Barbara County all the way through San Luis Obispo County and a few from Monterey County as well.
So no, I’m not a wine reviewer anymore and I don’t have a desire to have that life. But I still write about wine and more and more, I find I’m doing PR. I write for Wine Country This Week which is a real kick, but it’s not like I’m reviewing wines or making unbiased judgments. That’s not what WCTW is. No, I’m not nearly well trained enough, knowledgeable enough to tell you the same things that James Laube or Robert Parker can tell you. What I can do, though, is tell you this: I’m a wine writer, a wine aficionado, a fan, an amateur wine-maker, a wine collector and I know wine relatively well.
And Lyn and Jan don’t pay me to write anything. I’m a member of their club. And I’m really glad I am.
Posted in Food and Wine
Mark
I am honored !!!!what an incredible review.
this is the greatest ego trip one can ever be on.
thank you and now that you have all this free time, you MUST come by the winery again this year….
Len
I’ll trade you my “one lousy bottle” of Gelfand Rose for the next “one lousy bottle” of Gelfand Petite Syrah that you get!
I agree with you. Gelfand wines are one of the best of the best “cult” wines in Paso Robles. I give it 5 stars. And, by the way, I sell it in my store here in Paso.
Jan Manni
Owner/Sommelier
The Wine Attic
13th & Spring St.
In the Alley
Paso Robles
805-227-4107